M6 starter
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M6 starter
I have a poorly functioning starter in my '88 M6 (U.S.). I want to dismount it for a rebuild. I am thinking I need to remove the intake plenum and then mostly work from under the hood. Is that the preferred method?
Re: M6 starter
That's the way I've done it in the past, and according to section 12.51 of the Workshop manual, it's the recommended way also.
Be prepared for those hoses to a be more than a little tight though.
Be prepared for those hoses to a be more than a little tight though.
E24 M635CSi
Re: M6 starter
Sorry if this post gets repeated. Somehow after I typed it up and hit submit is kicked me out of the forum. So, for the second time:
Since you asked...
Yes removing the plenum gives you the clearance. I had a bit of trouble removing the hose on the bottom of the plenum - you're probably stronger so may not be an issue.
Once removed you have access, but you'll likely need a special wrench to get the inboard bolt. A friend welded one up for me, but it broke so I broke down and bought a set from Harbor Freight. Worked great.
Since you asked...
Yes removing the plenum gives you the clearance. I had a bit of trouble removing the hose on the bottom of the plenum - you're probably stronger so may not be an issue.
Once removed you have access, but you'll likely need a special wrench to get the inboard bolt. A friend welded one up for me, but it broke so I broke down and bought a set from Harbor Freight. Worked great.
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1988 M6
Re: M6 starter
Closer look at the starter.
Outboard fastener is more accessible. Pic from underneath. I worked both above and below the car.
Pic of starter loosened.
Hope these are helpful. I bought a replacement from FCP Euro, but the first one they sent was incorrect. They quickly replaced it. All good now except it's been on jackstands/storage for winter. Chomping at the bit to go for a drive, but have to wait for the salt to get washed away.
Good luck!
Scott
Outboard fastener is more accessible. Pic from underneath. I worked both above and below the car.
Pic of starter loosened.
Hope these are helpful. I bought a replacement from FCP Euro, but the first one they sent was incorrect. They quickly replaced it. All good now except it's been on jackstands/storage for winter. Chomping at the bit to go for a drive, but have to wait for the salt to get washed away.
Good luck!
Scott
1988 M6
Re: M6 starter
Such great/helpful info. This forum is the best. I wish there was as good a source for e30 Bimmer info. By the way, I thought I saw somewhere that there is a 19mm wrench in the trunk toolkit for the starter bolt.
Re: M6 starter
I see no other way to do the starter, besides pulling the plenum. I put a slightly longer drain hose on the bottom too, so that I can lift it just a bit, and pull it off. That really helps, but still gravity drains to the pan.
I posted this comment in another starter thread, but I have found the best tool for getting the nuts loose/tight is a thin wall box end wrench. You recall correctly, Scott. The HEYCO double box end straight wrench that is in the factory trunk tool kit is a great option, so I bought a spare. Then I went and got some offset double box end wrenches ("S" shaped) like SBeaud posted pictures of. Those make the job WAY easier. Just make sure the wrenches you buy are very thin walled. I have yet to find a socket that will work without problem, but I hear that aircraft mechanics prefer one brand (maybe Mac?) because their sockets have the smallest OD. Space is at a premium in aircraft engine bays, ya know.
For installation, get some hose, and slip a couple pieces over the head of the bolt. Works much better than a universal, and makes threading them on WAY easier. You just pull it off when the bolts bite enough for the hose to slip.
Jose
I posted this comment in another starter thread, but I have found the best tool for getting the nuts loose/tight is a thin wall box end wrench. You recall correctly, Scott. The HEYCO double box end straight wrench that is in the factory trunk tool kit is a great option, so I bought a spare. Then I went and got some offset double box end wrenches ("S" shaped) like SBeaud posted pictures of. Those make the job WAY easier. Just make sure the wrenches you buy are very thin walled. I have yet to find a socket that will work without problem, but I hear that aircraft mechanics prefer one brand (maybe Mac?) because their sockets have the smallest OD. Space is at a premium in aircraft engine bays, ya know.
For installation, get some hose, and slip a couple pieces over the head of the bolt. Works much better than a universal, and makes threading them on WAY easier. You just pull it off when the bolts bite enough for the hose to slip.
Jose
Last edited by Da_Hose on Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1987 M6 - My dream car
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Re: M6 starter
I believe the starter bolts are 17mm hex, and yes, the boxend 17mm wrench in the tool kit works great on the starter bolts.
Ken Kanne
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Re: M6 starter
Has anyone retrofitted the SR441 (from e32/e34B35) starter into an M6?
It’s a great upgrade for the M30 in allowing easier install and future removal. I would think that the SR441 would work on the S38 as it fits an M90/M88 block. I know the flywheels are the same so teeth mesh is not an issue
Ralph
It’s a great upgrade for the M30 in allowing easier install and future removal. I would think that the SR441 would work on the S38 as it fits an M90/M88 block. I know the flywheels are the same so teeth mesh is not an issue
Ralph
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Re: M6 starter
Should I remove the plenum by way of the 12 acorn nuts on the 6 intake horns, or is it just as good to remove the 6 short rubber bellows? And, if I disconnect the aluminum horns do I then have to change some kind of o-rings or other gasket?
Re: M6 starter
Great thanks.
Re: M6 starter
Sorry. Thinking again there may have been a O-ring on the intake horn that came off with the plenum. Mine were fine, so no issues.
1988 M6