Drivers door lock!! Broken!!

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GripGreg
Posts: 2938
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:13 am
Location: Long Beach, Ca.

Post by GripGreg »

Hoadie, you should hang on to the new parts 'cause you never know when the glued parts crash again!
Also, maybe it's just me, but, I'll never understand why people don't just get a remote locking system. :-? As in a car alarm?
It bypasses the key altogether.
Hit the apex
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
chykneestweakr

Post by chykneestweakr »

to revive an old thread...

i just had this issue with my 87 635 drivers door lock cylinder. the end which holds the L-pin has snapped off. Hope anyone can shed some light. How do you know if it is a 4 or 5 key code? I have seen repair kits from ECS tuning http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E24-635CSi ... 9/ES90808/ for $18 bucks, but it does not seem to have the same end where the L-pin would attach the cylinder to the arm actuator. Will that repair kit work? If not, can anyone suggest where I may find the proper key cylinder that has the proper end for the L-pin? Thanks in advance.
bpoliakoff
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Post by bpoliakoff »

If you don't know how, any locksmith can do it. Just bring in both the old and new cylinders. The repair cylinder will have new tumblers and it should have the tumblers needed stamped into the old cylinder
81 Euro 635 M90 with motronic. Currently under a complete nut and bolt restoration. Pictures at
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

chykneestweakr wrote:to revive an old thread...

i just had this issue with my 87 635 drivers door lock cylinder. the end which holds the L-pin has snapped off. Hope anyone can shed some light. How do you know if it is a 4 or 5 key code?
I don't know, but I don't think it is an issue? That refers to how may sizes of tumblers are used, there are 11 slots for tumblers with either 4 or 5 different sizes used for each slot.
I have seen repair kits from ECS tuning http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E24-635CSi ... 9/ES90808/ for $18 bucks, but it does not seem to have the same end where the L-pin would attach the cylinder to the arm actuator. Will that repair kit work?
I believe that is the repair kit (Coded 5000) for the early cars without the deadbolt mechanism found in the newer cars. If you look up the '87 I believe it uses the kit coded 10001 which tuns past the 45º point to the deadbolt position at 90º. Look up the part number for your VIN in RealOEM or BMWfans.com.
If not, can anyone suggest where I may find the proper key cylinder that has the proper end for the L-pin? Thanks in advance.
If you go to getbmwparts.com you find the number for the repair kit has been superseded and is No Longer Available except as Special Order:

Old Part Number 51219061345
New Part Number 51211886519
Part Name NLA - LOCK SPECIAL ORDER
MSRP $136.75
Core $0.00
Save $27.35
Online Price $109.40

Do a part number search at ECS Tuning and you get the same thing but $3 cheaper ($106.89) The problem with ECS is that they don't seem to list parts by model year, which makes a difference.

You can also order the entire "CATCH WITH KEY LEFT" assembly from ECS Tuning, (part #1 on realOEM.com below), for a $1 cheaper and get a key!? ( $105.88 ) ... but I don't know if it comes with extra tumblers to match your current key or if the new key is blank or if it is coded to you VIN?? You may have to send on a copy of your registration. give them a call?

Here is a lot more info on the locks. The links have some incorrect information in them so you have to read them all and sort it out:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... -Mechanism&

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chykneestweakr

Post by chykneestweakr »

Thanks Chris for the detailed info. I figured this is what I will have to resort to getting. Just wish that I could get verification that that is the correct part number for what I am wanting.
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

chykneestweakr wrote:Thanks Chris for the detailed info. I figured this is what I will have to resort to getting. Just wish that I could get verification that that is the correct part number for what I am wanting.
What is it that you want? You can get the part numbers from RealOEM.com

The repair kit listed above is for an '87, but it is SPECIAL ORDER and costs more then the entire lock assembly!

Have you checked out your other post, It should clear up some of your questions:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... st27746363

Part #: 51 21 1 886 521 will get you the entire lock assembly (with new lock heater and connection rod) as shown for an '87. You have to send in your VIN but it will come back coded to your key (if your key is original).

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rrrs
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2018 8:51 pm
Location: Hawaii

Re: Drivers door lock!! Broken!!

Post by rrrs »

Hi, I know this is very old thread but I got exact problem described where the slotted end of the driver lock cylinder broke off.
Unfortunately, replacement part 51 21 1 886 521 seems to be no longer available anywhere, so was looking into e-bay as well as on this forum for replacement out of a parted car.
Mine is early '85 e28 based US car and uses exactly same lock as shown above in this thread.
When looking for replacement somehow all second hand E24 locks I can find use different type of the cylinder; similar to one I see in my passenger door.

I am confused as the lock on ebay is listed as '86 E24 driver side, so thought it should work in my '85 car?
Are this locks interchangeable (can I use the one with plastic latch as shown in the ad) to replace mine?
Would I be able to use tumblers out of my broken cylinder to re-key this one in order to work with my key?
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