Engine running woes

[hornhospital]

Possible vacuum leak(s) are the injector seals. Since that's right at a high vacuum area, it will play hob with your fuel/air mix.

[Candycj1]

Possible vacuum leak(s) are the injector seals. Since that's right at a high vacuum area, it will play hob with your fuel/air mix.

The injectors are the one bit of the fuel system that's not been overhauled / renewed and was on my long list - I'd heard the seals can leak as well as the injectors stick. Is there a definitive guide to removing them on the B35 engine? I've followed a few threads on here but they seem to have subtly different approaches and not sure which is best / correct for mine...

[marc79euro645]

Maybe try some techron injector cleaner in the gas. I've used it before with a 1/4 tank of fuel, to a full bottle of techron. drive it around the block and let it sit overnight. It has helped me before.

[Candycj1]

First time back in the garage last week for a month and to add insult to injury, some a*** has scraped the rear wing from the wheel arch over the filler cap cover to the corner of the rear light lens, breaking the lens in the process. Nice. As its a public car park with no liability nothing i can do about it other than suck it up and move on.

So - i was trying to work out how to remove the injectors and cannot for the life of me figure it out. How the hell do you undo the electrical connectors? I've read here that they're 'tricky' but i can't see any way to do it whilst the injectors are in place. Attached is the best shot i can get of one of the connectors (by slotting my phone camera underneath the rail).

There's no way i can reach them all let alone remove these clips. I've opened up the harness conduit wondering if there was a way in from the top (2nd pic) but no dice. Bentley simply says 'remove the electrical connectors'. How??? What am i missing?

[hornhospital]

Try turning the injector so the wire is facing you.

[Candycj1]

Try turning the injector so the wire is facing you.

there didn't seem to be much tolerance between the bottom of the harness conduit and the connectors, to the extent i couldn't see how i could pull the connectors off even if i could remove the clips - it didn't feel like i'd be able to rotate the injectors for that reason. Do the two hex-head bolts in the conduit hold it in place and would undoing them give me some play to get better access, rotate the injectors and remove the connectors? Also would rotating the injectors not stress the injector wires?

[86_6series]

You can try to remove the rail with the injectors attached.
Very carefully pry from the end of the rail working your way to the
other end.

That was my method to make it easier.

[Candycj1]

You can try to remove the rail with the injectors attached.
Very carefully pry from the end of the rail working your way to the
other end.

That was my method to make it easier.

Thanks; i had planned to remove the rail with the injectors attached (as suggested also by Bentley) - but wasn't aware i could also leave the electrical connectors attached (though also couldn't see how i could unclip them in situ). Do you know if those two hex bolts are holding both the conduit and the rail in place? i couldn't see any other bolts holding the rail down so am guessing that's it?

FYI this is the B35 engine in case the removal is different to the earlier variants - maybe with this one it all has to be pulled out in one unit?

[86_6series]

Yes, 3 bolts hold the B35 rail. Just gently pry from one side along to the other.
If it's very difficult, could spray a lube down around injectors to help
dislodge the rubber injector rings.

good luck

[Candycj1]

Success! Undid the 2 hex head screws that hold the harness duct in place, then gently wiggled either end and the electrical connectors came off without any hassle. Turned out only 3 of them had the metal spring retaining the connector on - i'm 99% sure i didn't lose any taking it off and i know the PO did do some engine work so presume they were lost previously. Anyone know if they can be sourced? Don't think they're essential given the duct screws down but like to be complete.

Once that was off, removed the 3 bolts holding the rail, FPR and feed pipe - then tried the wiggling on the rail. Not a chance! Lubed the injectors, pulled, wiggled, pried - no dice. Ended up removing the injector clips (easy) and taking the rail off leaving the injectors in situ - no bother. Rotated, lubed and pulled each injector and after much sweat had them all out, no broken pintles nor as far as i can tell, nothing dropped into the cylinders. Phew.

Sent them off to PK Auto in Lincoln - report has come back that 1 had a good spray, 3 were fair and 2 poor. Also 2 failed completely on a separate test (not sure what that one was exactly) - all now passed and with good spray post-cleaning, new rings, baskets, pintles etc. Only problem now is i'm now away for a few weeks so won't be able to refit and see if this has cured the issue until i get back - for sure it won't have made it any worse! Fingers crossed!

[Jlc]

Getting my Shark back after a new windshield was installed to replace the one that took a rock chip. One of the items the tech suggested was to replace the idle control valve. Looking at usual sources they are either NLA or very expensive. I am going to try cleaning first as wll as replacing a number of hoses that are shot to fix rough idle when cold issue. Any suggestions to source new ICV if mine is going bad?.