Nearly done refinishing front grilles. The black got a coat of Solution Finish black. The metal is tougher. I sanded off all the aluminum clear coat with 320 grit paper, and then refined it with 800, then 1500, 2000, and finally steel wool and then aluminum polish. It is starting to look really good.
But now that it's almost done: whats everyone's opinion on re-coating with more clear coat? Do you just keep the metal bare or coat it? If you're in favor of clear coat, what product?
Clear Coat Opinions
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Re: Clear Coat Opinions
I'm very interested in this project, as I tried to sand mine a while back, with almost no success
First off, the aluminum trim is hard anodized, which is probably why it took so much sanding
Most recommend removing the hard anodized coating first, with products such as oven cleaner
But since I am interested in giving this another shot, I would like to know more about the steps you took, did you mask off the plastic grills first, for instance
I have also used Solution Finish on my black plastic bits as well and really like the results
To answer your question, depending on how much you use your 6er, I would suggest just leaving it alone, once you're done
For me, with the 2k or so miles I put on my 6er every year, followed by removing the pitting from 42 years of previous use, I will likely just leave them be
First off, the aluminum trim is hard anodized, which is probably why it took so much sanding
Most recommend removing the hard anodized coating first, with products such as oven cleaner
But since I am interested in giving this another shot, I would like to know more about the steps you took, did you mask off the plastic grills first, for instance
I have also used Solution Finish on my black plastic bits as well and really like the results
To answer your question, depending on how much you use your 6er, I would suggest just leaving it alone, once you're done
For me, with the 2k or so miles I put on my 6er every year, followed by removing the pitting from 42 years of previous use, I will likely just leave them be
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
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2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
Re: Clear Coat Opinions
Yeah I am learning a lot as I go.
So sanding is not impossible; but it's quite a challenge. You have to really attack it with fairly coarse material (320 grit might have been too fine); and it takes forever. I only discovered how hard it was, when I did it.
The 2nd pic below shows what happens. The corners of the cross-section take the pressure and the coating comes off... but the flat portion resists removal. A lot. You can see if you zoom in on the trim a kind of center-section coming to a point, where the coating is still not gone. These grilles were a total of maybe 2 hours sanding time by hand.
I didn't tape or mask the plastic; but I did go back and sand with finer grit to smooth out any gouges from sanding the metal. After the Solution Finish no sanding marks show up.
Oven cleaner works. Doesn't harm the plastic, and takes the coating off. I used it on the kidney grilles and I'm glad I did; just so much less work. It requires time to work; maybe 20-30 minutes before wiping it off.
Shout out to Solution Finish below in 1st pic. You can see the 'before and after' view; one done and one waiting to be done. Good stuff.
I think I'll take the advice not to re-coat. Don't wanna be sitting here re-removing it in another decade or two...
So sanding is not impossible; but it's quite a challenge. You have to really attack it with fairly coarse material (320 grit might have been too fine); and it takes forever. I only discovered how hard it was, when I did it.
The 2nd pic below shows what happens. The corners of the cross-section take the pressure and the coating comes off... but the flat portion resists removal. A lot. You can see if you zoom in on the trim a kind of center-section coming to a point, where the coating is still not gone. These grilles were a total of maybe 2 hours sanding time by hand.
I didn't tape or mask the plastic; but I did go back and sand with finer grit to smooth out any gouges from sanding the metal. After the Solution Finish no sanding marks show up.
Oven cleaner works. Doesn't harm the plastic, and takes the coating off. I used it on the kidney grilles and I'm glad I did; just so much less work. It requires time to work; maybe 20-30 minutes before wiping it off.
Shout out to Solution Finish below in 1st pic. You can see the 'before and after' view; one done and one waiting to be done. Good stuff.
I think I'll take the advice not to re-coat. Don't wanna be sitting here re-removing it in another decade or two...
Re: Clear Coat Opinions
You’re talking about clear coating just the metal, right?
If the metal was anodized aluminum, and you sanded all the anodizing off (which is crazy hard to do) and polished it up, it is now unprotected bare aluminum and will start tarnishing.
It can be a slow process, and it still looks good as it tarnishes (it just gets more and more matte looking. And it can always be brought back to shine with a polish.
But if it were me, I think I’d clear coat it. The only caveat being I have the materials and equipment to apply 2 part automotive clear coat, which is far more durable than rattle can. I wouldn’t put rattle can clear on it.
But either way you’re fine. Clear coat can be removed from that little bit of trim very quickly with paint stripper if you don’t like it. If you leave it uncleared, you can periodically repolish it.
If the metal was anodized aluminum, and you sanded all the anodizing off (which is crazy hard to do) and polished it up, it is now unprotected bare aluminum and will start tarnishing.
It can be a slow process, and it still looks good as it tarnishes (it just gets more and more matte looking. And it can always be brought back to shine with a polish.
But if it were me, I think I’d clear coat it. The only caveat being I have the materials and equipment to apply 2 part automotive clear coat, which is far more durable than rattle can. I wouldn’t put rattle can clear on it.
But either way you’re fine. Clear coat can be removed from that little bit of trim very quickly with paint stripper if you don’t like it. If you leave it uncleared, you can periodically repolish it.
Re: Clear Coat Opinions
Yes the option I had in mind is a can from the local hardware store. Which is a reason to probably not do it.
I’d be interested to hear what’s needed for a proper automotive grade clear coat application, especially on just the metal on trim pieces like these. What does your 2-step process look like?
In the end think I’d rather leave it bare, and then I could take action later if it’s tarnishing too much. Less is more.
I’d be interested to hear what’s needed for a proper automotive grade clear coat application, especially on just the metal on trim pieces like these. What does your 2-step process look like?
In the end think I’d rather leave it bare, and then I could take action later if it’s tarnishing too much. Less is more.
Re: Clear Coat Opinions
Standard automotive clear coat is an activated 2 part formula.
You have the clear coat, and the hardener.
You mix them together and spray from a paint gun.
It’s not hard, but you need the spray gun and a compressor to drive it.
You have the clear coat, and the hardener.
You mix them together and spray from a paint gun.
It’s not hard, but you need the spray gun and a compressor to drive it.